No, the woodgrain foil is bonded to the PVCu using hot glue and rollers, and it’s allowed time to set before being fabricated. Therefore, the woodgrain should never peel of it’s own accord, only if deliberately damaged.
Please report your issue to our customer care team here on website.
A haze on the glass is usually an optical illusion caused by the sun shining on the glass at an oblique angle. It can happen at certain times of day and is caused by the sun reflecting off the energy coating on the inside of the glass.
Condensation is defined as the physical process by which a gas or vapour changes into a liquid. Regarding windows and doors, it is the difference in temperature between the internal and external environment, and the glass, that causes condensation to form. It is not a manufacturing fault.
If the door is going to be fitted between brickwork and that the aperture is square and level, you should deduct 10mm from the total brick-to-brick width and also make a 10mm deduction from the brick-to-brick height.
All our doors will arrive unglazed. The glass units will be delivered at the same time but will need to be installed after the frame and doors have been fitted. Always ensure that the doors are fitted and run smoothly and that the final fixing screws are in place. The glass will then need to be toe and heeled to ensure they won’t drop.
Unfortuantely, you’re not able to fit trickle vents on our bi-folding doors after manufacture.
The DV173 low threshold does have the facility to have small aluminium ramps fitted at no extra cost. With the inclusion of the ramps the threshold will comply with Part M of the Building Regulations (DV174).
Please check the following;
If the bottom seal overhangs the outer frame and there’s a gap at the top, it is likely that your door hasn’t been toe and heeled right when glazed. If this is the case, you will need to re-glaze the doors. If the top and bottom seal both overhang the outer frame, your outer frame has not been fitted right and must be redone.
The purpose of an external sill is to take water away from door and deposit so that it will not make its way in to the property. If your door was sat directly on to brickwork, then you will need a sill because the brickwork is a flat surface. Water is not going to disperse on its own, so a sill is recommended.
If your door is being fitted on to some form of existing sill like stone or concrete, then this should drain water away on its own without the need for an external sill. We would however always recommend that you discuss this with your installers to ensure that no errors are made.
In most cases the frame and sashes of the aluminium sliding door will be supplied fully assembled. On doors up to 3500mm wide we will supply the glass loose with the sashes fitted to the frame. Any sliding patio doors above 3500mm wide, will be supplied with the sashes loose. Our installation guide will explain in more detail and provide instructions on how to fit the sashes and the glass unit.
The sill or cill is installed to the bottom of the window/door to allow a projection over brickwork to carry water away and allow it to run off safely to the external of the building. Without a sill there is a risk that water can run into the cavity and cause leaks inside the property. If you have a stone/concrete sill, you usually won’t require a sill with your window/door.
It’s important to note, that our sliding sash windows are all fitted with an integral sill, the sill is the bottom section of the frame. The amount of projection can be specified by you/your installer depending on your requirements. For example, if your sash window is going onto a stone sill, it will still have it’s integral sill, however, it will have no external projection.
If you have an existing stone sill then usually our 150mm sill with upstand is the most suitable because it has no external projection.
A threshold is the bottom section of frame on a door. A standard threshold basically means that the bottom section of frame will match the rest of the outer frame. This will usually create a raised step, therefore, it’s worth speaking with your installer to establish how the door will be installed to ensure the step is set down below the floor.
In order to comply with Part M of the building regulations, on most new builds, you will need to specify a low part M compliant aluminium threshold.
We have a trade counter which can provide architraves and any other trims that you may require. You can ask sales at the point of order or contact our trade counter directly. Our range of trims will also soon be available to buy online.
The external astragal bars will match the profile of your window, they’re surface mounted and the glass unit will have internal back to back spacer bars, using this option will most authentically replicate traditional timber windows which had multiple glass panes. For example Georgian or Victorian style.
The internal fret will also create the look of separate panes, albeit less authentically. The benefit of fret over astragal is that the windows are easier to clean without having to clean around the surface mounted bars. Notwithstanding that, the astragal bars are still the most popular and attractive choice.
There should be a gap between the astragal bar and frame to allow for movement if there was no gap then the bar would just pop of.
Required Gap: 0.8mm
Tolerance: +/- 0.1mm
Our factory showroom can be found at our production facility in Brighouse, Yorkshire. We always recommend seeing the products up-close in person as it will help you make the right decision. However, until then click here to see a virtual tour of our showroom.
When you’ve discussed your requirements with one of our product experts and you’re happy with the design and price, all you have to do is reply in writing to let them know that you would like to proceed with the order. They will send your new window and/or door designs to manufacture. If you’re not quite sure about your next step, please refer to our easy 5-steps guide on how to buy new windows and doors here.
There are price lists available to download from our website, this convenient and honest pricing method allows you to work out your own quotation from the comfort of your own home or office. Alternatively, if you need our input then all we need is for you to download the relevant enquiry form from our website, complete as much of the information as possible and email this to us at email@example.com.
Our payment terms vary from full payment with order to 50% with order with the balance on delivery. The payment terms will be clarified prior to you confirming your order. If you are a regular trade customer and would like to discuss an account facility, please complete our short application form which can be requested via firstname.lastname@example.org.
Please refer to our guarantees page to download a full PDF for more information.
If you are a trade customer please click here to view our Terms and Conditions and if you are homeowner buying for your own home please click here to view our Terms and Conditions.
If the gap is even down the locking side, you might just need to adjust the hinges slightly to make the gap bigger. If the gap is bigger at either the top or bottom, you may need to adjust only the top or bottom hinge. If the gap is smaller in the middle, it is likely that your frame has been bowed inwards. If the door is catching at the bottom of the outer frame it needs to be lifted on the hinges.
Please also be aware that if the gap isn’t even all the way around the door slab to the outer frame, the frame may not have been fitted square and may need to be redone.
If you can push the door tighter onto the seal when it’s locked, you just need to adjust the latch keep and hook keeps found on the outer frame.
On open inwards doors, as standard we prep and supply our slimline adjustable flag hinges. In some cases, the door slab may need to be slightly adjusted to equal out the gapping. Both top and bottom; lock side and hinge side. It gives installers that adjustment if ever needed on site.
The following steps need to be followed to allow work to be carried out:
1. Remove the clip-on cover plate which will be located on the inside face of the door slab by sliding it out to expose the adjustment screws.
2. Remove the two screws in the lateral position and undo the screws on the height position by two turns.
3. Repeat this on the other two hinges.
4. Lift the door to the correct position and use packers to help keep the door in the required position with the equal gap all the way around the door.
5. Tighten the screws in the height position and insert screws in the lateral position (New holes might have to be drilled.) If new holes are required, then timber dowels will need to be inserted into the existing holes to prevent the screw readjusting itself back to the existing holes.
6. Slide cover plate back on and clip securely in.
7. If Lateral movement is required, repeat the above in reverse order.
Lateral Adjustment (mm) +/- 4mm
Height Adjustment (mm) +/- 4mm
We charge between £0 – £200 per order (not per window), depending on where you are in the mainland UK and the number of windows ordered.
Please refer to our delivery page for more information on the delivery process.
Once the driver arrives, he will in most cases be able to off load the goods on his own (however a helping hand is always welcome). The goods will be deposited on your property but will not be taken in to your house as he is not insured to do so. This is non-negotiable. When the items have been delivered, you will have 15 minutes with the driver to check through the items to make sure there has been no visible transit damage to the items. Although rare, if there has been any damage, then the items must be returned to Quickslide for rectification. The reason we ask this is if we need to replace the product it is much quicker to send the original back with the driver to get the whole replacement process moving as quickly as possible. If you aren’t quite sure please call us during the delivery. The delivery note must be signed, name printed and dated as proof that all items have been delivered in good order. Any outstanding balance must be paid prior to the driver leaving.
As we manufacture majority of our products ourselves, our lead times can usually be flexible to suit your requirements. Sliding Sash Windows in a stock colour can be ready in as little as 3 days. As a guide, we suggest allowing 2-3 weeks from order to delivery. However, we encourage you to let us know when you need the products for, and we’ll do our best to meet your requirements.
Yes. Our products are tested to comply with new build regulations, including Approved Document Q (security). It’s important to let us know if your ordering products for a new build, as the specification will need to be altered to ensure the products are compliant.
Yes. Conservation areas are sometimes a bit of a sticking point, but overall, we have had great success. I am sure you will appreciate that each area is different and most of the time you are reliant on one specific individual to give you green light but in our experience, we do seem to be having more and more success. Our suggestion however would be to go with a wood-grain finish, most conversation areas we deal with tend to like the white wood-grain finish opposed to the smooth white PVC.
The length of the installation will vary by property type and product type. Some examples to give you an idea, if removing and re fitting a sash window, we’d expect to complete 3-4 windows per day. We’ll always confirm the estimated length of the installation at the point of survey.
99% of our work is done from the inside and will not require scaffolding.
Yes, we’ll remove and dispose of your old windows. In some cases, we’ll ask for a skip to be available at the property. In most cases, we’ll transport the old windows back to our factory and dispose of them via our recycling facility.
To date the best result, we have had is having permission to install our sash windows with all the heritage features to the sides and rear of a listed property. Generally, the consensus when asking about PVC windows is ‘no’, however, it is always worth a try. If you find that you may require some additional information from Quickslide directly, please just give us a call. We will always do what we can to help.
The minimum width for a side opening window to comply with fire escape regulations is 620mm.
We usually supply all our windows glazed, in order to make the transportation safer and reduce the risk of damage. If you require us to send your windows unglazed, please ask at the point of order.
No. With our casement windows we fit the trickle vents in the head of the outer frame and not the sash. When a trickle vent is specified in a casement window, we use a larger profile section for the head of the window changing it from a standard 56mm outer frame to 78mm outer frame to incorporate the trickle vent and without compromising on the distance between the vent and your internal plaster line.
All our windows and doors are internally beaded. We do not offer an externally beaded option.
Following should be use
You need to measure the internal widths of each section of your bay window, by measuring the existing windows point to point. We also require the internal angle. It’s essential that you provide us with the internal dimensions.
The bay post has metal plates, which need to be screwed to each side of the sash window outer frame. These have a knuckle which will slot into the bay pole.
No. The reason is because the profile on the sash bottom rail is different and the outer frame is cut to a different angle.
Trickle vents are more often that not, required on newb-build projects. If you’re refurbishing, it’s generally a choice whether or not you want to specify trickle vents.
If your sash window is less than 1000mm in width, we will fit one lock and provide one of each requested handle. If the window is over 1000mm in width, we will provide 2 locks and 2 of each handle requested.
D handles are located to the outside of the window at the bottom of the top sash, screwed into the underside of the sash into the steel reinforcement using four screws. These then enable the top sash to be pulled downwards from the inside (once access is gained by tilting the lower sash inwards). One D-handle is fitted as standard for windows under 1200mm wide and is fitted centrally. Two are fitted as standard on windows 1200mm wide and over spaced equally – max. of 300mm from corners.
Lift hooks are located to the inside of the window at the bottom of the lower sash and placed 19mm up from bottom of sash. Screw through the sash into the steel reinforcement using two screws, these then enable the lower sash to be pulled upwards. One lift hook is fitted as standard for windows under 900mm wide – the lift hook is fitted centrally. Two lift hooks are fitted as standard on windows 900mm wide and over; these are spaced equally and max. 300mm from corners.
The pole eye is to be fitted to the centre of the top rail on the top sash. You will need to source your own pole and hook if required.
There are two reasons as to why a woodgrain externally and smooth white internally sash window does not have a tilt facility;
1. The bottom channel of the top sash has fringe seal in it so the white base profile is hidden and as you cannot have 2 materials in the same channel the tilt arms cannot also run in this channel. This means that the sashes simply cannot tilt as they don’t have tilt arms.
2. There is foil applied to the bottom of the outer frame and if the window tilted the foil would be ripped off.
When the window profile is curved, there is no way for us to install the balance mechanism or the latches that keep the sash in the frame channel, therefore, if we did not fix the sash closed, it would fall inwards.
We can offer triple glazing on a number of products. However, it’s important to remember, that when you have a shallow unit depth (such as 24mm on a sash window), triple glazing often ends up less efficient than double glazing. We’d encourage you to talk to our sales team about your requirements. If we can understand, why you would like triple glazing, we can advise first of all whether we can offer it in your choice of product, and also whether it is the most suitable solution for your needs.
Yes, you can but it will be costly and it’s not ideal. Both items are simply not designed to be fitted afterwards they must be included at the quotation stage. If you want to fit them afterwards then it would usually result in a new glazed top sash, so try to get this right to start with.
The first thing to check is that packers have been placed under the sill directly under the jambs as this then allows the dead load to be transferred directly to the structure without bowing the sill which would then cause the sash not to locate correctly. If the lift hooks have not been fitted at the correct height this can also stop the bottom sash going down far enough and again stop the lock from engaging.
The external face of the outer frame is the section in question here. This profile section measures 69mm which is 52mm of flat profile and 17mm of sculpted profile. You can put up to 40mm of the flat section of the profile behind your reveal, but we would usually recommend 30mm each side.
Please check that the top sash has got an even gap all around the way along the top and the bottom sash got an even gap along the bottom.
If you have put fixing straps on the windows to fit them you might have a screw going into where the show runs, this would stop your sash sliding up. It’s also possible that after fitting you’ve had shutters, blind hooks or anything else screwed to the outer frame of the window. The screw could’ve gone into where the shoe runs, which again would stop your sash from sliding past this screw.
It might just be that your balance has come disconnected, this can happen if the window has been carried or stored on its side. All our windows should always be handled in their upright position, if ignored this could influence balance tensions.
Balances are a long tube with a spring inside. Constant forces are coils inside a white box approximately 75mm to 140mm long. Both are fitted into the outer frame of the window.
If you have foamed your window in, or packed the frame too tight, this could potentially cause the sash and the tilt arms to be hard to tilt inwards and to slide up and down. It’s also worth checking if you have bent the tilt arms. This could cause it to get stuck in the frame making the sash hard to tilt.
Please check the following;
If you answered no to any of the above, then that could be why your windows are draughty.
If you have foamed or packed your windows too tight, this is likely to make them stiff. If the sashes tilt fine, the bottom sashes can be adjusted on the shoe bar under the sash. If you have constant force, the coils might be running dry. This can happen with building dust, plaster dust etc. This can be fixed by spraying them with a silicone spray.
The increased opening size found on our fire escape PVCu Sliding Sash Windows are based on an overall % of the total window size. However, as a general rule the height should be around 450mm. Please ask our product experts if you require any more information.