We advise that you clean all products with hot soapy water. You should avoid using harsh chemicals, especially on woodgrain or painted products. On our PVCu sliding sash windows, you can use a silicone spray to lubricate the moving parts such as the springs. Do NOT use WD40! Please head to our blog to read our guide on how to clean sash windows.
The material used for the seals on our PVCu casement windows and doors, and PVCu flush casement windows and doors is TPE (thermoplastic elastomer). In order to maintain the flexibility and the lifespan, we recommend to treat the seals annually with silicone spray or talcum powder to rub. They may not come in contact with concentrated detergents or similar products. If your windows and/or doors feel like they are “sticking”, it may be time to tend to the seals.
No, the woodgrain foil is bonded to the PVCu using hot glue and rollers, which is then allowed time to set before being fabricated. Therefore, the woodgrain should never peel off on its own accord, only if it is purposely damaged. The foiling process is carried out using state of the art machinery, which makes the process appear to be fairly simple. The below video gives you a quick insight into the foiling process and shows the rollers in more detail.
If you have an issue with your order, please report this to our dedicated customer care team who will be in touch as soon as possible. You can report your issue here on our website and if you are able to we kindly request that you also send us some photos of the issues you are experiencing, which will help us identify the right solution quickly.
A haze on the glass is usually an optical illusion caused by the sun shining on the glass at an oblique angle. It happens at certain times of the day and is caused by the sun reflecting off the energy coating on the inside of the glass. Please note haze on your windows is not a manufacturing fault.
Condensation is defined as the physical process by which a gas or vapour changes into a liquid. Condensation is formed due to the difference in temperature between the internal and external environment and the glass. Please note, condensation on your windows is not a manufacturing fault.
If your door is making a rattling noise it is likely to be an issue with the compression of the lock. Adjustments can be made using a correct sized Allen key to turn the cams to achieve the correct compression. If the ratting noise continues or if you are having trouble fixing the issue, please call your installer to ask for advice.
If the door is going to be installed between the brickwork and the aperture is square and level, you should deduct 10mm from the total brick-to-brick width and height. We have a very thorough bi-fold installation guide available to read on our website.
Our bi-folding doors will arrive unglazed. The glass units will be delivered at the same time as the doors but will need to be installed once the frame and doors are in. To prevent the glass in the panels from dropping, you should make sure you have toe and heeled the glass. A guide on how to toe and heel the glass can be found in the last section of our installation guide.
Yes, you can fit trickle vents to our bi-folding doors after manufacture if you have the correct tools. However, we don’t advise you to do this, as it may damage the panel and/or frame and would incur a cost to fix or replace.
Yes, our DV173 low threshold option has the facility to have aluminium ramps attached at no extra cost. With the addition of the ramps the threshold will comply with Part M of the Building Regulation (DV174). See our building regulation guide for more information.
Firstly, if your bi-folding doors are hard to slide, please check and make sure the frame is square and plum. All gaskets should measure 11mm between the frame and panel and the rebated locking side should measure 14mm between the frame and panel. If the doors are still hard to slide, please check that the door has been toe and heeled correctly. If you are unsure if the door has been toe and heeled correctly, we recommend you to get in touch with your installer and ask them to check this.
The purpose of an external sill is to take any water away from the door, so it doesn’t make its way into your property. If your door is sat directly on the brickwork, you will need a sill because the brickwork is a flat surface. Water won’t go away on its own, so we recommend a sill. If your sliding patio door is installed onto an existing sill made of stone or concrete, this should drain water away on its own without the need for an external sill. We recommend that you discuss this with your installer to ensure that no errors are made during the process.
In most cases the frame and sashes of the aluminium sliding patio door will be supplied fully assembled. On doors up to 3500mm wide we will supply the glass loose with the sashes installed to the frame. Any sliding patio doors above 3500mm wide will be supplied with the sashes loose. Our installation guide will explain in further detail and provide instructions on how to fit the sashes and the glass unit.
Trickle vents are more often that not, required on new-build projects. If you’re refurbishing, it’s generally a choice whether or not you want to specify trickle vents. You can read more about the requirements specified by building regulations on our blog.
A sill/cill is a projection to cover either the cavity or any rough brick edge and also to carry excess water away from the face of the brickwork. Without a sill there is a risk that water can run into the cavity and cause leaks inside the property.
You will need a sill if you need to cover the cavity or any rough brickwork and remove any excess water from the face of the brickwork. Our PVCu sliding sash windows come with a sill as standard. However, if the sash window is installed onto an existing sill, you have the option to request a none-projecting sill.
A threshold is the bottom section of the frame on a door. A standard threshold means that the bottom section of the frame will match the rest of the outer frame. This will usually create a raised step; therefore, you should speak with your installer to establish how the door will be installed.
It should be noted on the point of order if you require easy access for perhaps a wheelchair user or small children, as this will likely affect your choice of threshold. In order to comply with Part M of the building regulations, on most new builds, you will need to specify a low Part M compliant aluminium threshold.
Yes, we have a trade counter on site, which can provide architraves and any other building items you may require. If you require anything from our trade counter you can visit us at Heaton Estate, HD6 4BW or call us on 03332 412 240. Please note, the maximum length of architrave the courier will accept is 2.5m. Anything over 2.5m would either need to be collected or booked onto one of our Quickslide deliveries. A delivery charge will apply.
The external astragal bars will match the profile of your window, they’re mounted onto the surface of the glass and within the glass unit you will find internal back-to-back spacer bars. Opt for external astragal bars if you require the most authentic solution replicating original timber windows with multiple glass panes e.g. Georgian or Victorian style.
The internal fret will also create the appearance of separate panes, albeit less authentically. Internal fret makes it slightly easier to clean the windows due to the bars being inside the glass unit.
There should be a gap between the astragal bar and frame to allow for movement. If there was no gap, the bar would just pop off. PVCu or UPVC expands in heat and by including a gap we’ve made room for any potential expansion you may see during hot summer months. The PVCu will turn to its original form when it cools down.
Required gap: 0.8mm | Tolerance: +/- 0.1mm
Our factory and showroom are located in Brighouse, West Yorkshire. We always recommend that you visit our showroom to see our products up-close, which will help you make the right decision regarding product type, material and specification. In the meantime, you can see a virtual tour of our Quickslide showroom here.
When you’ve discussed your requirements with one of our product experts and you’re happy with the quotation, all you have to do is send them an email to let them know you would like to proceed with the order. They will then send your requirements of your new windows and doors into production.
There are price lists and online designers available to view and use on our website. Our convenient and honest pricing method allows you to work out your own quotation from the comfort of your own home or office. Alternatively, if you need our input, please download the relevant enquiry form, complete as much of the information as possible and email it to our product experts at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Our payment terms vary based on customer type. The payment terms will be clarified prior to you confirming your order. Our payment terms will also appear on your order confirmation. If you are a regular trade customer and would like to discuss an account facility, please complete our short application form, which can be requested by contacting email@example.com.
To make a bank transfer, use the following details:
Account Name: Quickslide Ltd
Account Number: 61096482
Sort Code: 53 – 61 – 07
IBAN Number: GB49NWBK 535107 61096482
SWIFT Number: NWBKGB2L
To pay with your card, please call our accounts department on 01484 719 282 or alternatively you can make a payment online.
We accept cash, bank transfers and all major debit and credit cards (excl. AMEX).
To find out about our guarantees, please refer to our guarantee page and download the full document.
If your composite door is hard to shut, we advise you to adjust the keeps and get the installation checked by your installer. If the door is gapping out, remove the slab, dowel the existing holes and sit the slab on 4/5mm packers and re-fix hinges.
If your composite door moves on the lock side when locked please adjust the keeps and get the installation checked by your installer. Remove the slab, dowel the existing holes and sit the slab on 4/5mm packers and re-fix hinges.
On open inwards doors, as standard we prep and supply our slimline adjustable flag hinges. In some cases, the door slab may need to be slightly adjusted to equal out any gaps. Both top and bottom; lock side and hinge side. The following steps need to be followed to allow work to be carried out:
1. Remove the clip-on cover plate which will be located on the inside face of the door slab by sliding it out to expose the adjustment screws.
2. Remove the two screws in the lateral position and undo the screws on the height position by two turns.
3. Repeat this on the other two hinges.
4. Lift the door to the correct position and use packers to help keep the door in the required position with the equal gap all the way around the door.
5. Tighten the screws in the height position and insert screws in the lateral position (new holes might have to be drilled). If new holes are required then timber dowels will need to be inserted into the existing holes to prevent the screws readjusting itself back in the existing holes.
6. Slide the cover plate back on and clip securely in.
7. If lateral movement is required, repeat the above in reverse order.
Adjustment tolerances: Lateral Adjustment (mm) +/- 4mm | Height Adjustment (mm) +/- 4mm.
Yes, someone always needs to be in on the day of your delivery to sign off the products and sometimes to help offload the goods depending on the size and quantity of the order.
If the driver is not able to answer your call, he may be in the middle of making a delivery or on a break. Please send the driver a text or leave a voicemail requesting a call back. Alternatively, feel free to contact our transport team on 03332 412 240 for further information.
We charge between £0 – £200 per order (not per product), depending on where you are in the mainland UK and the number of products ordered. Your sales representative will be able to confirm the delivery charge (if any).
When you place your order, our sales representative will inform you of a week commencing date. Closer to the time you will receive a notification from our logistics team with a delivery date and estimated time. The notification also includes the driver’s contact details in case you need to get in touch with them on the day of your delivery. For more information on our delivery process please refer to our delivery information here on our website.
When your driver arrives, they will in most cases be able to offload the goods on their own (however, a helping hand is always appreciated). The goods will be deposited on your property but will not be taken into your home, as the driver is not insured to do so. This is non-negotiable. Once the items have been delivered, you will have 15 minutes with the driver to check through your products to make sure there is no visible transit damage. Although it’s rare, if there has been damage the items must be returned to Quickslide for rectification. The reason we ask this is if we need to replace any products it is much quicker to send the original back with the driver to get the whole replacement process moving. If you aren’t quite sure, please call our transport team during the delivery. The delivery note must be signed, name printed and dated as proof that all items have been delivered in good order. Any outstanding balance must be paid prior to the driver leaving.
As we manufacture our products ourselves, our lead-time can be flexible to suit your requirements. Sliding sash windows in a stock colour can be ready in as little as 3-5 days. As a guide, we suggest allowing 2-3 weeks from order through to delivery. However, we encourage you to let us know when you need the products for, and we will do our very best to meet your requirements.
Unfortunately, we are unable to specify a time until closer to the day of your delivery. Please feel free to contact your driver to liaise with them. Their contact details can be found on your delivery email and/or text message confirmation.
In most cases we are unable to change the delivery day or time as our drivers have a set weekly schedule they are required to stick to. However, please feel free to contact our transport team on 03332 412 240 to see if we have the availability to do so.
If scaffolding is required, who’s responsible for sourcing the scaffolding will be agreed at the point of order. In most cases, the scaffolding will be organised by Quickslide and the cost will be included in your quotation. If organised by Quickslide, the installer will make sure it is ready for the installation.
Please refer to our page of measuring and installation guides to find out how to install our products.
No, we don’t require anyone to be present during the installation, but we will need to gain entry upon arrival.
An installation may cause slight damage to the wall around the window, which will be mended by the installer before completion. In most cases an installation doesn’t require re-decoration. Please note, any decoration required is not the installer’s or Quickslide’s responsibility.
Yes all our products can be installed all year round. During extreme weather conditions we may need to postpone the installation to prioritise the health and safety of you and our team.
We have a team of professional installers in place here at Quickslide and if you’re based within an approximate 30-mile radius of our production facility in Brighouse we can offer you a complete service from survey, manufacture to installation. You also have the option to buy our products via one of our many stockists based all over the UK. You also have the option to request more information on your nearest Quickslide stockist here on our website. Lastly, you have the option of sourcing a local builder to do the job for you or you can choose to do the installation yourself; we always recommend following our measuring and installation instructions carefully.
Yes you can install our products into a new build home. Our windows and doors are tested to comply with new build regulations, including Approved Document Q (security). It’s important to let us know if you’re ordering products for a new build, as the specification will need to be altered to ensure the products are compliant.
Generally, yes you can install our products in a conservation area. Conservation areas are sometimes a bit of a sticking point, but overall, we have had great success. I am sure you will appreciate that each area is different and most of the time you are reliant on one specific individual to give you the green light but in our experience, we do seem to be having more and more success. Our suggestion would be to opt for a woodgrain foil finish, most conservation areas we deal with tend to like the white woodgrain finish opposed to smooth white.
The length of the installation will vary on the property and product type. If the installer is removing and installing a new sash window they can generally complete three windows per day. Our product experts will confirm the estimated length of installation at the point of order.
Yes, we will often require scaffolding as half of an installation is completed from the outside. In some cases, we will not require scaffolding but we will confirm this at the point of survey.
Yes, we will remove and dispose your old windows. In some cases, we’ll ask for a skip to be available at the property, but in most cases, we’ll transport the old windows back to our factory and dispose via our recycling facility.
The best result we have had is having permission to install our Sash Windows with all the heritage features to the sides and rear of a listed property. Generally, the consensus when asking about PVC windows is ‘no’, however, it is always worth a try. If you find that you may require additional information from Quickslide directly, please just give our product experts a call on 03332 412 240. We will always do our best to help.
There are two options when it comes to installation. You could use a Quickslide stockist registered with a competent person scheme such as Fensa or Certass who will be approved to carry out the work to comply with building regulations. Once the installation is completed they will be able to issue a certificate to prove that the work was done by a registered installer. Alternatively, you have the option of sourcing your own builder or even do the installation yourself, in which case approval can be sought from the relevant body – either your local authority or an approved inspector who will check the replacement windows and doors for compliance.
A FENSA certificate does not relate to the manufacture of the products and it is therefore not something Quickslide can issue.
The minimum width for a side-opening window to comply with fire escape regulations is 620mm. Please read our complete guide to building regulations to find out more about the requirements to meet building regulation standards.
We usually supply all our windows glazed in order to make the transportation safer and reduce any risk of damage. If you require us to deliver your windows unglazed, please request this with our product experts at the point of order.
No, with our PVCu casement windows we fit the trickle vents in the head of the outer frame and not the sash. When a trickle vent is specified in a casement window, we use a larger profile section for the head of the window changing it from a standard 56mm outer frame to a 78mm outer frame to incorporate the trickle vent and without compromising on the distance between the vent and your internal plaster line.
All our windows and doors are internally beaded. We do not offer an externally beaded option.
Start by unlocking the window. Use the lift hooks (also known as sash pulls) to lift up the bottom sash slightly. Do not attempt to tilt the sash if it’s been lifted all the way to the top. You should now be able to tilt sash towards you by pushing both the sash buttons inwards and carefully pulling it towards you. Now slide down the top sash slightly, push both the tilt buttons inwards and pull it towards you. Both sashes will stay in a secure position when tilted and you do not need to support them. To close the sashes you must start by pushing the top sash into its upright position and slide it upwards. You are now able to push the bottom sash into its upright position and slide it to the bottom. You will hear a clicking sound when each sash has been pushed into its upright and secure position. Lastly, remember to lock the window.
You need to measure the internal widths of each section of your bay window, by measuring the existing windows point to point. We also require the internal angle. It’s essential that you provide us with the internal dimensions.
The bay post has metal plates, which need to be screwed to each side of the sash window outer frame. These have a knuckle, which will slot into the bay pole.
Start by sliding up the bottom sash and tilt it towards you. Release the tilt arms using a edged object such as a screwdriver. To release the tilt arm place the edged object between the spring clip and the black button. Repeat the instruction on the other side. Now push the sash back into its upright position. Release the sash from the brackets found underneath the bottom sash by unscrewing the screws. You should now be able to carefully lift off the bottom sash.
If your sash window is less than 1000mm in width, we will fit one lock and provide one of each requested handle. If the window is over 1000mm in width, we will provide 2 locks and 2 of each handle requested.
D handles are located to the outside of the window at the bottom of the top sash, screwed into the underside of the sash into the steel reinforcement using four screws. These then enable the top sash to be pulled downwards from the inside (once access is gained by tilting the lower sash inwards). One D-handle is fitted as standard for windows under 1200mm wide and is fitted centrally. Two are fitted as standard on windows 1200mm wide and over spaced equally – max. of 300mm from corners.
Lift hooks are located to the inside of the window at the bottom of the lower sash and placed 19mm up from bottom of sash. Screw through the sash into the steel reinforcement using two screws, these then enables the lower sash to be pulled upwards. One lift hook is fitted as standard for windows under 900mm wide – the lift hook is fitted centrally. Two lift hooks are fitted as standard on windows 900mm wide and over; these are spaced equally and max. 300mm from corners.
The pole eye is to be fitted to the center of the top rail on the top sash. You will need to source your own pole and hook if required.
There are two reasons as to why a woodgrain externally and smooth white internally sash window does not have a tilt facility;
1. The bottom channel of the top sash has fringe seal in it so the white base profile is hidden and as you cannot have 2 materials in the same channel the tilt arms cannot also run in this channel. This means that the sashes simply cannot tilt as they don’t have tilt arms.
2. There is foil applied to the bottom of the outer frame and if the window tilted the foil would be ripped off.
When the window profile is curved, there is no way for us to install the balance mechanism or the latches that keep the sash in the frame channel, therefore, if we did not fix the sash closed, it would fall inwards.
We don’t offer triple glazing on sash windows, but we can offer triple glazing on a number of other products. It’s important to remember, that when you have a shallow unit depth (such as 24mm on a sash window), triple glazing often ends up less efficient than double glazing. You can read more about the benefits of double and triple glazing on our blog. We’d encourage you to talk to our sales team about your requirements. If we can understand, why you would like triple glazing, we can advise first of all whether we can offer it in your choice of product, and also whether it is the most suitable solution for your needs.
Yes, you can but it will be costly and it’s not ideal. Both items are not designed to be fitted post manufacture and they should be included at the quotation stage. If you want to fit them afterwards then it would usually result in a new glazed top sash, so try to get this right to start with.
The first thing to check is that packers have been placed under the sill directly under the jambs as this then allows the dead load to be transferred directly to the structure without bowing the sill which would then cause the sash not to locate correctly. If the lift hooks have not been fitted at the correct height this can also stop the bottom sash going down far enough and again stop the lock from engaging.
Please check that the top sash has got an even gap all around the way along the top and the bottom sash got an even gap along the bottom. If you have bigger gaps at the end on either the top or bottom sashes, your head or sill could be bowed. This will stop your sashes not going as far as they should, and your window won’t lock. If you have a gap at the corners, say right-hand side bottom and left-hand side top, your frame is fitted out of square and this will stop your window locking.
If you have put fixing straps on the windows to fit them you might have a screw going into where the show runs, this would stop your sash sliding up. It’s also possible that after fitting you’ve had shutters, blind hooks or anything else screwed to the outer frame of the window. The screw could’ve gone into where the shoe runs, which again would stop your sash from sliding past this screw.
It might just be that your balance has come disconnected; this can happen if the window has been carried or stored on its side. All our windows should always be handled in their upright position, if ignored this could influence balance tensions.
Balances are a long tube with a spring inside. Constant forces are coils inside a white box approximately 75mm to 140mm long. Both are fitted into the outer frame of the window.
If you have foamed your window in, or packed the frame too tight, this could potentially cause the sash and the tilt arms to be hard to tilt inwards and to slide up and down. It’s also worth checking if you have accidentally bent the tilt arms. This could cause it to get stuck in the frame making the sash hard to tilt.
If your sash windows seem draughty, you should check the following: Does your sash sit even all the way across the bottom on the sill when the window is closed? Does your top sash fit even across the top at the head when your window is closed? Is the gap on the woolpile down the side even at the top, middle, and bottom? If you answered no to any of the above, then that could be why your windows are draughty and you should contact your installer to help you.
If you have foamed or packed your windows too tight, this is likely to make them stiff. If the sashes tilt fine, the bottom sashes can be adjusted on the shoe bar under the sash. If you have constant force, the coils might be running dry. This can happen with building dust, plaster dust etc. This can be fixed by spraying them with a silicone spray.
The two sill options available on our Legacy PVCu sliding sash windows are 150mm or 210mm. Both options come with internal up-stand. The 150mm should be used if a none-projecting sill is required, which in other words mean if your window will sill on top of an existing stone sill. If your window requires a projecting sill you will need the 210mm option.
Remove the bottom sash and unscrew the screws that hold the case in place within the chamber. Remove the profile piece as shown and carefully cut the profile making room for the case to be replaced.
Start by removing the bottom sash. We have a video on our FAQ page explaining how to do this in more detail. Release the balance as illustrated in the video (please watch carefully as this cannot easily be explained in writing). By releasing the balance, the tilt arm and shoe will automatically slide to the bottom of the chamber. Slide down the top sash and remove the top corner caps and top board. You should now be able to see the top section of the balance. By unscrewing the fixing screw as displayed you should be able to remove the balance. Insert the new balance into the chamber and fix it by screwing the screw back into the top section. Now slide up the tilt arm to allow you to attach the balance back into the shoe by pushing the balance hook in between the slot. Carefully pull down the shoe to return it to its correct position.
Replacing a lock on one of our sash windows is very easy. By unscrewing the screws on the cam and the locking keep you are able to replace the lock with a new one.
When you have removed the old glass unit you can carefully place the new unit into place within the sash. Secure the glass unit in place by fitting the top bead followed by the bottom bead. Now fit the side beads, we recommend you place your Don Carlos knife in between the sash and frame as displayed to avoid damage while fitting the side beads. All you’ve got left to do now is to fix your sash pulls back into position.
Start by loosening the sash pulls as they may have been fitted on the bead slightly. You don’t have to remove them but it’s important that you don’t attempt to remove the bottom bead if the sash pulls are in position that by doing so you could damage the bead and/or sash pulls. Remove the side beads followed by the bottom bead using a Don Carlos knife. Slide the sash into it’s locked position to avoid damaging the springs. When the glass has been removed the sash will automatically weigh less and it may therefore slide up if not locked which could potentially damage the springs. Remove the top bead and you should be able to remove the glass unit. Please be careful not to drop the unit. In some cases you may even need to give the sash a little tap to break the seal in order to remove the glass unit.
The trickle vent is a very simple but useful feature that allows for a constant flow of air to enter your room. The vent comes with a flap that can be opened and closed as you please.
Remove the PVC cap found at the bottom of the bottom sash, here you’d find your first fixing point. The purpose of the cap is to cover up any fixing points. Now slide up the bottom sash, tilt it slightly and then slide it as high as it’ll go. By doing so, you should be able to reach the middle section of the side frame. The second fixing point is just below the shoe as illustrated. When the sash is in working position, this screw will be hidden. Remove the top corner cap and you will find your third fixing point. When both corner caps have been removed you’ll also be able to remove the top board allowing you to fix the window anywhere along the top section too.
Start by sliding up the bottom sash as far as it goes. If you’re facing the internal side, reach under the sash and a use a Don Carlos knife to remove the sash horn board found underneath the top sash. Now release the sash from the brackets by unscrewing the fixing screws as shown in the video. Carefully tilt both sashes towards you and release the top sash from the tilt arms and brackets found on the side of the sash by unscrewing the fixing screws. If you opted for quick release tilt arms, you can use a sharp object to quickly release the tilt arm from the bracket fixed to the sash. Carefully rest the top sash on the bottom sash or better yet ask a friend to hold it for you while you slide the top sash off the brackets.
Start by sliding up the bottom sash to a position where you can tilt it towards you. Now slide down the top sash and tilt it towards you and slide it up as high as it can go. Release the tilt arms using a edged object such as a screwdriver. To release the tilt arm place the edged object between the spring clip and the black button. Repeat the instruction on the other side. By resting the top sash on the bottom sash you can release the sash from the brackets by unscrewing the screws easily. Please note that one screw sits behind the reveal (refer to video). You should now be able to slide the top sash off the brackets.
The increased opening size found on our fire escape PVCu sliding sash windows is based on an overall % of the total window size. However, as a general rule the height should be around 450mm. For more information about fire escape options, speak to our product experts or read through the section on fire safety in our building regulations guide.
The video shows a step-by-step guide on how to fit the bottom sash on a PVCu sliding sash window. First, lift the bottom sash into position and then fix it to the brackets as shown. Now, insert the tilt arms into the canal found on the sides of the sash. You do this by simply sliding them into place. Push the sash into its upright position and fix the sash to the brackets found at the bottom by screwing in another set of screws on both sides. The sash should now be fixed to the brackets using a total of 3 screws on each side.
Start by sliding up the bottom sash and tilt it towards you. R Release the tilt arms using a edged object such as a screwdriver. To release the tilt arm place the edged object between the spring clip and the black button. Repeat the instruction on the other side. Now push the sash back into its upright position. Release the sash from the brackets found underneath the bottom sash by unscrewing the screws. You should now be able to carefully lift off the bottom sash.